May 1 - 25 (Part 19) A Day of Tradition & Quiet Magic in Seoul: Hanbok, Palaces & Hidden Gems
23rd May
‘There are journeys that fill your camera roll…
and then there are journeys that quietly change you.’
My time in South Korea has been a beautiful mix of both.
From the fast-paced energy of Seoul to the quiet, meaningful moments in between, this experience has given me more than I ever expected.
With just one full day left before flying home, I found myself wanting to hold onto everything a little longer. Not by rushing, not by ticking off another checklist, but:
- By slowing down,
- To take it all in and
- To simply ‘be’ here.
And that is exactly what this day became.
One Last Full Day in Seoul
One full day. That’s all that remained of my incredible journey through South Korea.
Looking back, those first five weeks alone in Seoul are something I wouldn’t have wanted to miss for the world. It shaped me in ways I hadn’t anticipated. Building friendships with people from all over the globe, navigating a completely new culture and language and learning to rely on my adaptability. It pushed me in ways I didn’t expect.
And honestly? I am proud of that. Proud of how I showed up for myself and embraced it all.
The final three weeks brought a different kind of magic. Sharing this beautiful country and all its moments with my husband made the experience feel even richer. We didn’t just ‘see’ South Korea… we truly ‘felt’ it.
But our journey wasn’t over just yet.
Dressing the Part: A Step Back in Time
This day was dedicated to tradition and folklore. We set out to rent a hanbok near the palaces we planned to visit. From Sinnonhyeon Station, we hopped on the subway to Jongno 3(sam)-ga Station, about a 30-minute ride.
(I’m really going to miss those little melodies that play before the subway arrives. Each direction has its own tune and somehow it became part of my daily life. Here you here the 2 sounds: https://youtu.be/tQkwfce7y4k?is=SvVsg5dqaNmBox9a)
The rental shop we originally found online we couldn’t find (classic😁), but the one we stumbled into turned out to be perfect. The shop is called Hanboknam Changdeokgung (한복남 창덕궁) and is near Changdeokgung Palace, 104-1 Waryong-dong Jongno-gu Seoul).
Not only did they have stunning hanboks, even for us long-legged people, but the lovely ladies there also styled my hair. That little extra touch made it all feel even more special.
Entering Royal History: Changdeokgung Palace
During our travels, we visited many UNESCO World Heritage sites and Changdeokgung Palace is certainly one of them.
Built in 1405 as a secondary palace to Gyeongbokgung Palace, Changdeokgung later became the main royal residence for many kings of the Joseon Dynasty. Today, it stands as the best-preserved of Seoul’s five remaining royal palaces.
The palace grounds are beautifully divided into three parts:
- The public palace area
- The royal residence and
- The serene rear garden, once a place of rest for kings, complete with a 300-year-old tree, ponds and elegant pavilions.
Walking Through the Palace in Hanbok
Dressed in our hanboks, we walked toward the palace feeling like we had stepped into another era. A wonderful bonus: wearing a hanbok grants you free entry, something I highly recommend if you ever visit!
We entered through the impressive Donhwamun Gate, originally built in 1608. Although I somehow forgot to take a photo (still can’t believe it!). The memory of its grandeur remains vivid.
Crossing the Geumcheongyo Bridge led us to the heart of the palace: Injeongjeon Hall.
The name means “good governance” and the building truly lives up to its importance. From the outside, it appears to be two stories high, but inside it’s actually a single grand space, designed to impress and it absolutely does.
All around us, people, especially locals, complimented our hanboks. It added such a magical layer to the experience. We took countless photos and even had kind strangers offering to take pictures for us. It felt like stepping into a living painting.
The Secret Garden: Nature & Harmony
Of course,we couldn’t miss the famous Secret Garden.
Access is only possible through a guided tour and it involves about an hour of walking… but it is so worth it.
Before entering (we had to wait until our time slot), we stopped at a small traditional building for coffee. A little misunderstanding meant we had to wait a bit longer (she thought we wanted iced coffee… very Korean 😄), but the sweet owner came out to apologize, complimented our hanboks and even took a photo of us in front of her shop.
Those are the moments you don’t plan... but remember the most.
The Secret Garden, also known as Huwon, was created during the reign of King Taejong as a private retreat for the royal family. Covering nearly 447,000 square meters, it was designed to blend seamlessly with nature, only shaped by human hands when absolutely necessary.
Nestled against the slopes of Bugaksan Mountain, the garden features lotus ponds like Buyongji, charming pavilions and winding paths that feel almost untouched by time. The harmony between architecture and nature is simply breathtaking.
Walking through it, I truly felt like I had stepped back into history.
Somewhere along the way, I also discovered a smartphone audio guide for the Secret Garden by Shinhan Bank (https://www.beautifulshinhan.co.kr/servShcaInqyF010.do?mappingId=%2FservShcaInqyF010.do&genActiontypeCd=2ACT1010&genDoctreattypeCd&genMenuId=menu_serv_serv_lawt_3095). You can even switch it to English, which makes it feel as if you’re wandering through the garden with your own personal guide.
A Day to Remember
After our stroll through the Secret Garden, we still had some time left before returning our hanboks. We wandered through the palace grounds a little longer, soaking in every last detail, every quiet corner, every fleeting moment.
Because somehow, we both knew… this was one of those days we would carry with us forever.
A Final Stop After Hanboknam
After returning our hanboks to Hanboknam, it was time to slowly move on, but not without one last stop steeped in history.
We wandered through a quiet alley just around the corner, which led us into Gwonnong-dong. This charming neighborhood, nestled alongside the ancient walls of Jongmyo Shrine, felt like a hidden pocket of calm in the city.
Gwonnong-dong: A Hidden Gem
With its narrow alleys, traditional hanok houses and the scenic Seosulla-gil walkway, Gwonnong-dong offers a completely different side of Seoul. Small jewelry studios, boutique cafés and unique dining spots are quietly tucked away here.
The atmosphere is peaceful, almost meditative and a beautiful contrast to the city’s usual energy.
Entering Jongmyo Shrine
As we approached Jongmyo Shrine, the atmosphere shifted.
Unlike the grand and decorative palaces, Jongmyo feels quiet, solemn and deeply spiritual. It’s a place of reflection rather than display.
Built in 1394 by King Taejo, the founder of the Joseon Dynasty, Jongmyo serves as the royal ancestral shrine where the spirit tablets of kings and queens are enshrined.
What makes visiting Jongmyo even more unique is that you can’t explore it freely in the same way as other historical sites. We weren’t allowed to enter the main halls or shrines, as these spaces are considered sacred and are preserved with great care.
Instead, we joined a guided tour, walking along a designated path through the complex. At first, this felt a bit restrictive, but it quickly became clear why. Moving through Jongmyo with a guide added so much depth, every structure, every open courtyard, every carefully placed element had meaning.
It turned the visit into more than just sightseeing. It became a story we were slowly walking through.
Inside the Sacred Halls
At the heart of Jongmyo are two main halls: Jeongjeon and Yeongnyeongjeon.
Yeongnyeongjeon
Jeongjeon, the main hall, houses 49 spirit tablets across 19 chambers, while Yeongnyeongjeon contains 34 tablets in 16 chambers. Each chamber is identical in layout, emphasizing their ritual purpose and the idea of equality in death.
Every detail inside serves meaning, from the placement of the spirit tablets to the ritual altars. Even a small hole beneath the ritual tables plays a role, allowing ritual liquor to reach the earth below and symbolically summon the spirits.
The Meaning of Spirit Tablets
Spirit tablets represent the presence of the deceased, allowing the living to symbolically reconnect with their ancestors during rituals.
This practice wasn’t limited to royalty, ancestral rites were deeply rooted in Korean culture across all social classes. Traditionally made of chestnut wood, modern versions are often made of paper, but the meaning remains the same.
Jongmyo Jerye: A Living Tradition
One of the most fascinating aspects of Jongmyo is the Jongmyo Jerye, the royal ancestral ritual.
For over 500 years, these ceremonies honored kings and queens, reinforcing both royal legitimacy and Confucian values of filial piety. The rituals included offerings of food, music and dance and once began at 1 a.m.
Today, the tradition continues and is held twice a year, allowing visitors to witness this powerful cultural heritage.
Jongmyo Jeryeak: Music Through the Ages
Equally captivating is Jongmyo Jeryeak, the music performed during the rituals.
First played in 1464, it has been carefully preserved and is now recognized as an important cultural treasure. Today, it is performed both during ceremonies and on stages worldwide, giving it new life beyond the shrine.
A Moment of Peace at Cheonggyecheon
From there, we made our way to Cheonggyecheon Stream, one of my absolute favorite places in Seoul.
This stream had become a little sanctuary for me. The sound of flowing water, combined with the gentle rhythm of the city, creates a calming, almost grounding experience.
We sat down, opened a library book and enjoyed a quiet coffee. One of those simple moments that somehow mean the most.
The Journey Back Begins
Reality slowly started to sink in… it was time to head back.
On our way to Euljiro Station, we came across the Magical Musical Stairs. Such a small, playful detail, but it made me smile.
Here you can watch a little video when Arthur went down the magical musical stairs:
One Last Look at Gangnam
Back on the subway, we headed toward Gangnam Station.
I couldn’t leave without taking one last look at Lexis Korea. That place holds so many memories, moments of growth, challenges and unforgettable experiences.
A Simple Goodbye Ritual
Just around the corner, we stopped by the ajumma’s (밀라이스) one last time to pick up mandu and gimbap.
A simple meal, but somehow, it felt like the perfect way to close this chapter.
A Familiar Comfort
As we walked home, I couldn’t resist taking one last glance at Dunkin’ Wonders, my go-to breakfast spot.
So familiar. So comforting.
A small goodbye… to a place that had started to feel like home.
Final Thoughts: More Than Just Travel
And just like that, our final full day in South Korea came to an end.
From wandering through the elegant grounds of Changdeokgung Palace in a hanbok, to the quiet, almost sacred stillness of Jongmyo Shrine and the peaceful pause along Cheonggyecheon Stream. This day felt like a reflection of everything this journey has been.
But it’s often the smallest moments that linger the longest.
The unexpected joy of stumbling upon the Musical Stairs near Euljiro Station, each step playing a note and making me smile like a child.
That one last look at Lexis Korea in Gangnam, the place where so much of my growth began, where unfamiliar words slowly turned into confidence.
Picking up mandu and gimbap from the ajumma (밀라이스), a simple, familiar ritual that somehow meant more this time.
And even something as ordinary as passing by Dunkin’ Wonders, thinking of all those quiet mornings that started there, coffee in hand, the day still full of possibility.
It was never just about the big sights.
It was about these in-between moments. The routines that became comforting. The places that started to feel like mine.
This journey has been so much more than travel.
It has been growth. Courage. Stepping into the unknown and slowly finding my place within it. Learning not just a language, but something deeper about myself.
And even though one more day still awaited us… I could already feel it, this chapter was gently coming to a close.
Not with an ending, but with a quiet kind of fullness.
With gratitude.
Tomorrow, we would leave. But for now, I was still here.
And quietly… that felt like everything.
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