May 1 - 25 (Part 5)

A Rainy Day in Busan… Spa Bliss, Sweet Treats & Seaside Stories

Before my summer break, I wrote my last story, but my adventure in Korea didn’t end there! There’s still so much to tell, especially about those unforgettable days in Busan, where rainy skies, warm spa steam, and seaside legends made it all feel a little bit magical. So, let’s pick up where I left off…

A Rainy Start

The weather forecast for May 6th didn’t look promising, a full day of rain. So, we decided to spend the day indoors. After a small breakfast (our convenient-store classics: cereals, milk and yoghurt), we set off on foot before the rain started, heading toward Shinsegae Department Store, one of the largest indoor malls in the world, just a 30-minute walk from our hotel.

We followed the Suyeonggang River, crossed the Suyeong Bridge, and soon found ourselves surrounded by the world’s most luxurious names: Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Dior, Chaumet… and yes, Shinsegae really is as grand as everyone says.

Sweet Discoveries at Shinsegae

After wandering through the glittering shops, we ended up on the rooftop garden, which offered a beautiful view over the city. We were surrounded by a peaceful park filled with big trees, a lovely contrast to the luxury and bustle inside the mall.

After enjoying the view, we went back down to my favorite part: the food floor in the basement. Among all the mouthwatering options, a long line caught our attention. It led to a small stand selling warm walnut confections, so of course we had to try them.

We chose the walnut with a milky-salty flavour, and oh my, it was delicious. Still warm, perfectly nutty, and impossible to stop eating. The brand, Buchang Confectionary, has an interesting story. Actor Lee Jang-woo collaborated with food content company FG to revive this nostalgic walnut snack brand, originally founded in Gyeongju in 1963. Their first store opened in Shinsegae’s Gangnam branch in 2023 and clearly it’s a hit here in Busan too.

Spa Land: The Perfect Rainy Day Escape

After our sweet treat adventure, it was time to truly relax. We headed to Spa Land Shinsegae Centum City, one of the biggest spas in the country and the perfect place for a rainy day.

We weren’t the only ones with that idea; we had to take a number and wait about 30 minutes to get in. The entrance fee was KRW 21.000 per person for four blissful hours.

Shoes off, spa clothes on: we received our matching spa shirts and shorts upstairs (I got men’s shorts, because, well… tall girl problems 😅). The bathing areas are separated by gender, but there are shared zones where everyone can relax together in their spa outfits.

One area had a heated floor where people were lying down, sipping drinks, snacking or even sleeping; some snoring ‘softly’ with their heads on wooding pillows. It was such a peaceful sight.

I treated myself to a manicure and pedicure (finally fixing my poor nails!) and discovered the most incredible massage chair ever. Honestly, I could have stayed there all day. After four hours of soaking, steaming and snoozing, we left Spa Land feeling completely relaxed from head to toe.

Dinner with Seoul Friends at Gwangalli Beach

That evening, we met up with Jessi and Thalia, two friends from my Seoul classes. Since we were all staying in different parts of Busan, we decided to meet at Gwangalli Beach, a ten to fifteen minutes walk from our hotel.

Jessi, ever the organized one, sent a photo of the beach with a red marker showing exactly where to meet (to avoid me “doing the Bianca”, as they call it 😇). Thalia, however, ended up at the opposite end of the beach. So, she was the one doing the “Bianca-hada” this time!) After some calls and laughter, we finally found each other halfway.

We went for dinner at Chwi Hwa Mong, a cozy restaurant Arthur and I had already been to. Everyone set their Naver Map, but this time I was the one who actually knew the way…redemption! We shared a lovely meal and a bottle of Makgeolli, which we “enjoyed slowly”, just as the bottle instructed.

Market Morning & a Climb to the Sky: Jagalchi & Gamcheon

The next morning, the rain had completely disappeared; Busan’s weather can change overnight! Under a bright sun, we took an Uber to Jagalchi Fish Market (Jung-gu Jagalchihaean-ro 52), the city’s most famous seafood market.

The market stretched endlessly, both indoors and outdoors, with colorful parasols and the freshest catch imaginable. One of the most memorable (and admittedly, slightly shocking) things I came across at the fish market was the wriggling spoon worm or gaebul (개불). It’s considered a delicacy in Korea, often eaten raw, freshly chopped and served with spicy gochujang, soy sauce or a mix of salt and sesame oil. Sometimes it even shares the plate with other raw seafood like sea cucumber of sea urchin.

Locals describe gaebul as chewy with a mild natural sweetness, best enjoyed fresh from the sea so it keeps that subtle ocean flavor. And freshness is definitely guaranteed at the market. As curious as I was, I couldn’t quite bring myself to try it. Let’s just say the appearance was… a little too memorable. But even without tasting it, seeing this local delicacy up close was fascinating, the perfect reminder that Korean cuisine is as bold and adventurous as it is flavorful. We wandered through the maze of seafood and vegetable stalls, where many elderly ladies sat proudly behind their displays. It was a fascinating glimpse of local life.

Next, we decided to head up, up up to Gamcheon Culture Village, known for its hillside of colorful houses. Nave Maps struggled a bit with the narrow alleys, and the climb in the blazing sun felt endless, but the view at the top was absolutely worth it.

Tea with a View and an Artist’s Touch

Thalia suggested we visit Tea Gallery Yao (6-1043 Gamcheon-dong, Sahagu, Busan), a small art gallery and tea house hidden in the village. We enjoyed a Korean Tea Experience - served in beautifully tiny cups - while admiring the artis-owner’s paintings displayed around the space.

After the tea, we wandered through the winding alleys, soaking up the colors, the murals and the panoramic views before heading back down again, this time halfway by bus, thankfully.

Songdo Beach & The Legend of Turtle Island

Our final stop for the day was Songdo Beach, where we enjoyed a late seafood lunch with a seaside view at Haemul Saenggak (124-30 Amnam-dong, Seo-gu, Busan), right near the Ocean Cable Car.

After lunch, we took a stroll to Geobukseom Island (‘Turtle Island’), which lies just off the shore. There, we learned the romantic legend behind the beach: a timeless story of love, sacrifice and transformation.

The Legend of Songdo Beach

Once upon a time, a fisherman fell in love with the daughter of the sea dragon king. But an evil sea monster, jealous of their love, disrupted the ritual that would have allowed her to become human. The fisherman fought the monster but was mortally wounded. Heartbroken, the dragon princess could not follow him into the spirit realm.

Seeing their eternal love, the dragon king transformed the fisherman into Turtle Rock and allowed his daughter to live beside him forever. On Geobukseom Island, sculptures commemorate their love and visitors can write wishes on golden dragon scales at the “Dragon of Wishes” monument.

Packing Up for Jeju Island

After our stroll by the sea, we took an Uber back to the hotel. The next day, we’d be flying to Jeju Island from Gimhae Airport; the next chapter of our Korean adventure.

Because our JinAir flight allowed only 20kg of checked baggage each (while our KLM flight back home allows 23kg😐), I had to make a tough call about my Lexis Korea workbooks. In the end, I snapped more than a hundred pages on my phone 😅, a digital keepsake of countless study hours. Still, it broke my heart to leave the well-worn books behind, resting quietly in the hotel room’s trashcan.

After packing our luggage and sorting out the workbooks, we went for a light dinner at Paris Baguette (110-73 Millak-dong, Suyeong-gu), just a short walk from our hotel, a simple but satisfying way to end a full day of exploring.

Later, we took one last peaceful stroll to Gwangalli Beach, saying goodbye to Busan under the city lights. We left the beach with the soft promise that Busan would welcome us back soon. But, first, our journey drifts south, to Jeju Island, where from May 8th to 12th we’ll trade city lights for ocean cliffs, waterfalls and island skies.