May 1 - 25 (Part 17) Walking Between Past and Present in Suwon

21st May

Some days feel like a transition.

Not just from one place to another, but from one atmosphere into the next. It is like turning a page without quite knowing what the next chapter will bring.

This was one of those days.

We left the East Coast behind, Yangyang, with its sea air and open horizons. We drove west, all the way to Suwon. From waves to walls. From the edge of the country to its historical heart.

And somewhere along that journey, the pace began to change.

Leaving the east behind

We had booked one night at Ibis Ambassador Suwon, a city about 30 km south of Seoul. A city my friends had already visited on a rainy day, while I was picking up Arthur from Incheon Airport. But today, the sky couldn’t have been more different. Clear, bright and full of promise.

Suwon is traditionally known as the “City of Filial Piety”. A concept deeply rooted in Confucian values, about love, respect and devotion to your parents and ancestors. Not just in words, but in how you live your life.

It’s a quiet kind of philosophy. One that reveals itself slowly.

A Pause Along the Way

The drive from Yangyang would take about three hours, so we left early. With weather like this, that wasn’t exactly a hardship.

Around 1 p.m. we left the Seoul-Yangyang Expressway (no. 60) near Gangchon, in search of something more local than a highway stop. That’s how we found An Gol Ox Bone Soup (안골 설렁탕).

Always a bit of a challenge, ordering when you’re not fully familiar with Korean cuisine. So we did what often works best: looked at neighboring tables, pointed and asked for the same dish.

What arrived felt like more than just food. It felt like a ritual.

A steaming bowl of Seolleongtang (Ox Bone Soup), its milky broth rich yet delicate, filled with thin wheat noodles (somyeon). And once the noodles were gone, I added rice to the soup, turning it into a comforting rice soup.

Around it, small dishes (banchan) appeared one by one:

• Kkakdugi (cubed radish kimchi): pour a little juice into your soup for a spicy kick
• Pa-kimchi (green onion kimchi): sharp, bold and absolutely addictive
• Baechu-kimchi (napa cabbage): the classic, fresh and balanced
• Namul: seasoned greens adding an earthy touch

The broth itself is intentionally unseasoned. Your first task is to add coarse salt until the flavor ‘comes alive’. Or go full local: dip a piece of beef in salt, follow it with crunchy radish… perfection.

The walls told their own story too: covered in signatures from Korean celebrities. And in open cabinets: glass jars filled with ginseng roots, herbs, berries and/or mushrooms. This wasn’t just a restaurant. It was a specialist.

In Korea, stops like these are legendary. Food that fuels your journey, literally and culturally.

It wasn’t just lunch. It was a moment of connection: to place, to tradition, to something deeply Korean.

Arrival in Suwon & the Climb to the Past

After lunch, we continued toward Suwon. Another two hours later, we checked into our hotel, dropped our bags… and headed straight back out again.

Because some places ask to be experienced, not postponed.

Our destination: Hwaseong Fortress (화성).

We started at Paldalmun (팔달문), the southern gate, right in the middle of a busy roundabout. Finding the entrance to the fortress wall took a moment, but once we did, there was no easing into it.

Just stairs. Lots of them.

Up we went, climbing Paldalsan (팔달산) (145.5 m). At the top, a sweeping view of modern Suwon unfolded, but we were here for the ‘old’ city, still embraced by its ancient walls.

So we began our walk. 

Clockwise.

Walking Through History: Hwaseong Fortress

Built between 1794 and 1796 by King Jeongjo, Hwaseong Fortress surrounds the historic heart of Suwon. It was constructed to honor his father, Crown Prince Sado and today it stands as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The 5.74 km wall winds through the city, combining military innovation with elegant design. Gates, towers, secret entrances (ammun) and command posts, all remarkably well preserved.

One fascinating detail: workers were paid for their labor, something rare in Korea at the time.

Golden Hour at Hyowon’s Bell & Seojangdae

Around 5:30m p.m., we passed Hyowon’s Bell (효원의 종), perched atop Paldalsan. The bell was created to honor the filial devotion of King Jeongjo towards his father. The bell has various symbols representing the city of Suwon and its cultural assets.

The bell can be rung three times for a small fee:

1. In gratitude to your parents
2. For family happiness
3. For personal growth

A small ritual, but a meaningful one.

Nearby stood Seojangdae (서장대), the Western Command Post. From here, the panoramic view stretched endlessly. A wooden sign even pointed toward distant cities, London, Paris, Beijing, Tokyo, quietly reminding us how far we had come.

As the sun began to dip, we visited the huge bronze statue of King Jeongjo, drank fresh water from a well and continued toward Hwaseomun (화사문), the western gate, entering the old city.

Dinner Among Locals

Inside the old city, we wandered through narrow streets until we found a lively spot, popular with young Koreans: Ddeum.

Once again, we ate incredibly well. No makgeolli this time, just cold herbal tea already waiting on the table.

Simple. Perfect.

A Fortress by Night

By 8 p.m., we were back on the wall.

Now wrapped in darkness, the fortress felt entirely different: quiet, atmospheric, almost cinematic. The temperature was perfect for walking.

We passed illuminated pavillions, the impressive Janganmun (장안문), the northern gate and eventually reached another highlight:

Hwahongmun Watergate (화홍문)

Seven graceful arches carried the Suwoncheon Stream beneath the fortress. From above, you could hear the water cascading below, earning its poetic nickname: “Watching the rainbow on the river”.

Here you can see and hear the water coming out of the arches: https://youtube.com/shorts/M-p4LyxeoJk?is=6IrJ5kieJ3lDOTM8

Lights, Signals & a Floating Surprise

In the distance, a glowing balloon hovered above the fortress, Flying Suwon, a tethered helium balloon rising 150 meters into the air.

We skipped it… but it looked magical.

Further along, we reached the Beacon Tower (봉돈), once used to send smoke and Fire signals through five chimneys. An ancient communication system built for emergencies. Now simply part of the landscape, holding its stories.

Coming Full Circle

As we continued, the path slowly led us downward.

And there it was again: Paldalmun, beautifully illuminated against the night sky. The same gate where we had started, now transformed by darkness and light.

At 9:30 p.m., we completed the full circle.

Four hours of walking. 

But it felt like something more.

A Place That Lingers

Suwon doesn’t try to compete with Seoul.

And for me, it never could.

Because I love Seoul! The energy, the movement, the feeling that something is always happening, always just around the corner. It’s a city that pulls you in and doesn’t let go.

But Suwon… feels different.

Quieter. Slower. More reflective.

A place where history doesn’t rush past you, but gently walks beside you.

For a few hours, walking those walls, it was easy to imagine another time. People in hanbok. Soft footsteps. Lives unfolding in the spaces we now pass through so quickly.

And maybe that’s what stayed with me most.

Not just what I saw, but what I felt.

We had started the day in the east, in Yangyang, by the sea, with wide horizons and the sound of waves never far away.

And we ended it here, in the west, walking ancient walls under the night sky.

From open coastline to enclosed history.

From the rhythm of the ocean to the quiet strength of stone.

Same country. Same day.

And no, Suwon could never replace Seoul.

But for a moment, it didn’t have to.

Returning to What Felt Like Home

The next day, our journey would come full circle in Seoul.

Not just for a brief stop, but for two final days. Time to revisit familiar places, soak in the rhythm of the city once more and slowly prepare to say goodbye.

Before that, we would first drive our rental car to Incheon Airport, where it had all begun weeks earlier. From there, we’d take the subway back into Seoul, returning to the very same hotel and the very same room where I had spent the first five weeks of my two-month stay.

And this time, it wouldn’t just be about places, but also about people. We would meet up with two friends (Karin and Christian) from Lexis Korea and we would step back into history once more, dressed in hanbok, ready to wander through Seoul’s palaces.

A return, in every sense of the word.