May 1 - 25 (Part 13) A Day Among Kings, Temples and Lanterns: Gyeongju
Walking Through a Thousand Years of History
Some days while travelling quietly stay with you forever. Not because something spectacular happened, but because everything seemed to fall perfectly into place. The weather, the atmosphere, the places you visit and the small unexpected moments in between.
May 14th was one of those days.
The sun was shining brightly over Gyeongju, the ancient capital of the Silla Kingdom and the air had that soft warmth that makes you want to spend the entire day outdoors. It felt like the perfect day to step into Korea’s distant past.
Geyongju is often called ‘the museum without walls’. Everywhere you look there are reminders of a civilisation that flourished more than a thousand years ago. Royal tombs rise like green hills from the earth, temples sit quietly on mountain slopes and legends seem to linger in the wind between the trees.
On this day we would walk among the royal burial mounds of Daereungwon, step inside the mysterious Cheonmachong Tomb, climb the winding roads of Mount Toham to visit Seokguram Grotto and wander through the sacred grounds of Bulguksa Temple.
But what made this day truly special were not only the historical sites. It was also the unexpected moments. A butterfly fluttering past in the sunlight, a mysterious glimpse of people dressed in red among the trees and a traditional dance performance inside one of Korea’s most sacred temple halls.
It became a day where history, culture and quiet beauty blended together in a way that felt almost timeless.
The Silla Big Bell
Our destination was the Cheonmachong Tomb in Daereungwon Ancient Tomb Historical Park.
At one of the entrances we noticed a large bronze bell. It turned out to be a replica of the famous Silla Big Bell.
The original bell is one of the largest and oldes surviving bronze bells in East Asia. It was cast in 771 AD during the Unified Silla period and stands about 3.75 metres high, weighing nearly 19 tons. Today it can be seen at the National Museum of Gyeongju.
Why is it so significant?
Historical importance
The bell was commissioned to honour King Seongdeok and reflects the artistic and technological achievements of the Silla Dynasty.
Cultural symbol
It represents the strong Buddhist influence that helped shape Korean culture during the Silla period.
Acoustic engineering
The bell is famous for its incredibly deep, resonant tone which can travel for miles. Its structure and decorative reliefs are considered masterpieces of ancient metallurgy and acoustics.
National treasure
It is designated National Treasure no. 29 of Korea and is often called the Emille Bell.
The Legend
According to legend, the name ‘Emille’ comes from the sound the bell makes. People believed it resembled the cry of a child callen ‘emille’ (an old word for mother). The legend tells of a sacrifice made during the bell’s creation to achieve its perfect tone.
Today the bell is no longer rung to protect it. The last tolling ceremony took place on Korea’s National Foundation Day in 2003. Visitors can only hear recordings of its sound.
To give people the change to experience its famous tone, Gyeongju created a new bell modelled after the original in appearance, size and sound.
Walking Among the Royal Tombs
We then wandered through the beautiful Daereungwon Ancient Tomb Complex, where large grassy burial mounds rise from the landscape like gentle green hills.
These tombs date back to the early Silla period and were constructed as wooden chamber tombs covered with stone and earth mounds. Smaller tombs without mounds can also be found scattered throughout the area.
Among the most famous tombs here are:
- Tomb of King Michu
- Cheonmachong Tomb
- Hwangnamdaechong Tomb
Cheonmachong: Tomb of the Heavenly Horse
The tomb we entered, Cheonmachong, dates from around 500 AD and likely belonged to a close relative of a Silla king.
Its name means ‘Tomb of the Heavenly Horse’, because archaeologists discovered a birch-bark saddle flap painted with a flying horse when the tomb was excavated in 1973.
The excavation revealed an astonishing 11,500 artefacts, including:
- A magnificent gold crown
- Delicate gold handicrafts
- Beautiful glass bowls
- Additional saddle flaps decorated with heavenly horse imagery
Today visitors can enter a reconstructed interior where replicas of the burial goods are displayed.
A Beautiful Moment in the Park
After leaving the tomb we simply wandered through the park.
At one point I noticed something magical: in the distance I saw two people dressed in ancient red clothing walking among the trees. I couldn’t tell whether the woman wore a hanbok, but the sight was beautiful. The red garments against the green grass while sunlight filtered through the leaves.
Moments later another small miracle appeared.
A butterfly landed nearby.
After looking it up I discovered it was an Indian Swallowtail butterfly (Argynnis hyperbius).
In Korean it is called 암끝검은표범나비, which literally translates as ‘female black-tipped leopard butterfly’.
This particular butterfly was special because:
- It was a female, only females have the striking black-blue wing tips with a white band.
- Natural mimicry, females imitate the poisonous Danaus genutia tiger moth, which discourages birds from eating them.
- The underside of the wings shows a complex olive mosaic pattern with silver accents.
Up Mount Toham: Seokguram Grotto and Bulguksa Temple
Our next destinations were Seokguram Grotto and Bulguksa Temple.
From Cheonmachong it was about 40 minutes by car, climbing the winding road up Mount Toham. The ascent was steep but rewarded us with beautiful views.
At the entrance path to the Seokguram Grotto is a big bell. This bell is known as the Seokguram Tongil Daejong. It is a ‘Peace Bell’ or ‘Unified Bell’ often rung by visitors to pray for peace.
Here you see Arthur at the big bell wishing for our wellbeing:
At Seokguram Grotto a protective building now surrounds the ancient cave. The Buddha statue inside is preserved behind a glass window, so photography is not allowed. Instead we took a photo in front of the building where colorful lanterns were hanging.
Here is a picture of the front view, so you can see how it looks like from the inside.
This picture is licensed under the Korea Open Government License Type. Attribution: 문화재청
Seokguram Grotto
Built in the 8th century, Seokguram houses a monumental statue of Shakyamuni Buddha, looking out toward the sea in the ‘bhumisparsha mudra’ (earth-touching gesture).
The grotto is an artificial cave constructed from granite, consisting of:
- An antechamber
- A corridor
- A circular rotunda
Surrounding the Buddha are delicately carved statues of bodhisattvas, disciples and heavenly beings, making Seokguram one of the greatest masterpieces of East Asian Buddhist art.
Seokguram and Bulguksa together form a UNESCO World Heritage religious complex.
Bulguksa Temple
Afterwards we drove about 15 minutes down Mount Toham to reach Bulguksa Temple.
Cheonwangmun: Gate of the Four Heavenly Kings
To enter the temple we first passed through the Four Devas Gate (천왕문: Cheonwangmun).
Inside stand the Four Heavenly Kings, guardians who protect the temple and the Buddhist teachings from evil spirits.
Passing through this gate symbolises purifying the mind before entering sacred space.
The Stone Bridges of Bulguksa
Soon we stood before one of Bulguksa’s most famous architectural features. The beautiful stone staircase known as the Cheongungyo and Baegungyo Bridges.
- Baegungyo (백운교): the lower section with 18 steps
- Cheongungyo (청운교): the upper section with 16 steps
At the top stands Jahamun Gate, leading into the temple’s main courtyard.
The Temple Grounds
Bulguksa is a complex of wooden halls built on magnificent stone terraces.
The temple grounds are divided into three main areas:
- Birojeon: Hall of the Vairocana Buddha
- Daeungjeon: Hall of Great Enlightenment
- Geungnakjeon: Hall of Supreme Bliss
- Seokgatap: Pagoda of Shakyamuni
- Dabotap: Pagoda of Many Treasures
Lanterns of Wishes: 연등 and 소워지
Throughout the temple grounds colorful lanterns hung everywhere.
These lanterns are called 연등 (Yeondeung).
Attached to them are small paper cards called 소워지 (Sowonji), wish or prayer notes.
The lanterns symbolise the light of wisdom dispelling ignorance and by hanging a note, believers illuminate their wish.
Here you can watch the colorful lanterns waving in the wind:
Colours of the lanterns
- White: remembrance of deceased loved ones
- Red, yellow, blue, pink: happiness, health and prosperity
Stone Towers of Wishes
Another beautiful sight were the small stone stacks known as Dolsatap (돌사탑).
These are found all across Korea: at temples, on mountain trails and even in city parks.
Each stone placed on the pile represents a wish or prayer. If the tower remains standing, people believe their wish may come true.
Stacking the stones also becomes a meditative act, requirings patience and concentration.
An unwritten rule exists. Never deliberately knock down someone else’s tower, as that would bring bad karma.
The Golden Pig of Fortune
Near Anyangmun Gate we spotted a small golden pig statue.
The pedestal reads:
- Geungnakjeon: Hall of Supreme Bliss
- Bokdwaejisang: Statue of the Lucky Pig
Visitors now touch the pig’s back or snout to bring wealth, luck and prosperity.
Fun fact: in Korea, dreaming of a pig is considered a sign of financial luck.
The Turtle and the Dharma Drum
Near the Jahamun Gate we noticed another fascinating figure. A large turtle carrying a big drum.
This mysthical creature is called the Geobukjwada (the Holy Turtle Foot).
It symbolises:
- Strength and endurance
- Longevity
- The stability of Buddhist teachings
- Beopgo: drum for land animals
- Beopjong: bell for beings in hell
- Mokeo: wooden fish for aquatic creatures
- Unpan: cloud gong for birds and sky beings
An Unexpected Dance in Daeungjeon
The highlight of our visit happened inside the Daeungjeon Hall.
A large group of tourists sat down while their guide announced a special dance performance.
Two dancers entered.
The performance blended traditional Korean dance with spiritual symbolism:
1. Taepyeongmu: A royal court dance, performed in a magnificent golden robe, which, through intricate footwork, prays for universal peace and the prosperity of the land.
2. Yeonhwagongyang: A serene Buddhist offering dance in which the white lotus flower takes centre stage as a symbol of spiritual purity and homage to the Buddha.
3. Hallyangmu: A classical Korean dance that portrays the graceful poise and noble spirit of an intellectual scholar (Hallyang), using a fan to symbolise his refinement and emotions.
4. Nabichum: A meditative ‘Butterfly Dance’ in which the dancer, clad in a white robe with wide sleeves, mimics the fluttering movements of a butterfly, symbolising the liberation of the soul and the path to enlightenment.
5. Seungmu: One of Korea’s most iconic monk dances, in which the dancer, clad in long white sleeves, ‘wipes away’ worldly worries and concludes with a powerful, rhythmic drumming spectacle.
The transition from the royal Taepyeongmu dance to the lotus offering represented the idea that even earthly power bows to the wisdom of the Buddha.
The fact that the music shifted from the flute to the drums of the male dancer made it a comprehensive spectacle that encompassed the entire history and spirituality of Korea.
Inside the wooden hall, with the golden Buddha watching over the ceremony, the atmosphere felt incredibly powerful.
Here you can watch the 5 performances in order of appearance:
1. Taepyeongmu Dance (of the Great Peace): https://youtu.be/V25C_KM_Kd4?is=nqNE0ehYcXmi2Xon
2. Yeonhwagongyang Dance (Offering the Lotus Flower): https://youtu.be/QDCGdvbBgS4?is=JCotDYes6-lOw_9g
3. Hallyangmu Dance: https://youtu.be/WAP9R9kc9wo?is=3fx-UIX3ReyvqRVW
4. Nabichum Dance (Butterfly Dance): https://youtu.be/mgxqDVx7SGo?is=souo_Bg0-tGwo0_k
5. Seungmu Dance (Monk Dance): https://youtu.be/1Q7XKVsSTrA?is=F_gMO3Yya-14lLBG
Sunset over the Rice Fields
After this intense and beautiful experience we drove back toward the centre of Gyeongju for dinner.
Along the way we passed a rice field where the sunset reflected on the water, turning the landscape into a shimmering mirror.
We had to stop the car to capture the moment.
Night at Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond
After dinner we visited Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond.
Because the weather was still warm and clear, like many people we were strolling around the illuminated pond taking photographs.
A Day That Felt Timeless
As we slowly walked around Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond that evening, the lights reflecting on the water created a calm and almost dreamlike atmosphere. The palace pavilions shimmered on the surface of the pond while people quietly strolled along the paths, enjoying the warm evening air.
After such a full day it felt good to simply slow down and take it all in.
Looking back, this day in Gyeongju felt like travelling through layers of Korean history. In the morning we stood among the royal tombs of the Silla kings. Later we climbed the mountain to see the serene Buddha of Seokguram Grotto and wandered through the sacred courtyards of Bulguksa Temple, surrounded by lanterns, prayer wishes and centuries-old traditions.
But what made the day truly memorable were the small, unexpected moments:
- The glimpse of red garments moving quietly among the trees
- The delicate butterfly in the sunlight
- The rhythmic drumbeats echoing through the wooden hall during the dance performance and
- The golden glow of the rice fields at sunset
When we finally returned to our hanok stay, tired but happy, it felt like we had spent a day not just visiting historical sites, but truly stepping into the spirit of Gyeongju. A place where history, nature and spirituality still live side by side.
And that is exactly what makes this ancient city so special.
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