May 1 - 25: (Part 2)

A Perfect Day Playing Tourist in My Temporary Home City

The weather was absolutely perfect - blueish with some clouds - the kind of day you want to spend outside.

After a simple breakfast of cereal and instant coffee, we set off to explore some beautiful spots on the north side of the Han River. I wanted to start at Euljiro 3(sam)-ga Station, and to keep things easy, we walked to Gangnam Station (Line 2) so we could take the subway straight there without any transfers.

A quick tip: it’s always helpful to know exactly which Exit to take when navigating Seoul’s subway system. The stations can be huge beneath the streets!

As we emerged into the streets, we found ourselves surrounded by a mix of tiny shops selling all kinds of odds and ends, and towering construction sites reshaping the city. We made our way to one of my favorite places in Seoul: Cheonggyecheon Stream.

The weather couldn’t have been better for a stroll along the stream. People were walking, chatting, lounging with books, and simply soaking up the atmosphere. We grabbed some coffee, found a nice spot to sit and took in the scene.

A few interesting facts about Cheonggyecheon Stream: It’s 10.84km long, flowing eastward before merging with Jungnangcheon Stream around Salgoji Bridge. From there, the water flows west, eventually joining the Han River. The stream underwent a major restoration project between July 2003 and October 2005, revitalizing 5.8km of the waterway from Gwanghwamun to Sindap Railroad Bridge. The restoration included 22 bridges, a 20km hiking trail, landscaped gardens, water-friendly zones, wildlife habitats, and plenty of spots to relax.

In an earlier blog post, I mentioned a magical moment while crossing Jungnangcheon Bridge, where we saw large fish - likely Gangjeonchi - leaping upstream. Today, we spotted more large fish gently swaying in the soft current of Cheonggyecheon. Now that I know more about the stream, I think they might have been the same kind of fish, making their way upstream to spawn in calmer waters.

After our coffee break, we headed toward one of Seoul’s most iconic sites: Gyeongbokgung Palace. And this time, I wasn’t distracted; I finally noticed the impressive Statue of King Sejong standing tall in Gwanghwamun Square!

As luck would have it, we arrived just in time. At 1:00 PM, the Changing of the Guard ceremony was taking place in front of the palace. After the ceremony we bought our tickets and wandered inside the beautiful palace grounds, where we stumbled upon a fascinating guard fight training demonstration on one of the lawns.

Watch here for a short video of the demonstration:

https://youtu.be/fbrlgHGDOjM?si=aTiOnqW0W3-t9JQQ

As we explored, we noticed many visitors dressed in colorful Hanboks, not just foreign tourists, but Korean visitors as well. Arthur suggested we should try wearing Hanboks too. I told him we’d definitely do that when we return to Seoul after our upcoming 3-week tour around South Korea.

Unexpected Encouters at the National Folk Museum of Korea

Before leaving the palace grounds, we visited the National Folk Museum of Korea, where we learned so much about both traditional and modern Korean culture. It was truly fascinating. While strolling through the garden, we came across something delightfully unexpected. Among the traditional Stone Guardian Posts stood a handful of rather cheeky sculptures: stone phalluses and even a carved vagina.

We couldn’t help but laugh at the sight. It felt almost surreal to find them so openly displayed in such a public, educational setting. But a closer look revealed that these weren’t meant as jokes or provocations. In fact, they’re deeply rooted in Korean cultural and spiritual traditions.

These sculptures reflect:
1. Folk spiritual practices, celebrating fertility, life force and communal well-being.
2. Shamanistic rituals, honoring earth deities through raw, natural symbols.
3. Civic symbolism, where ancient spiritual values were woven into shared, outdoor spaces.

What seemed quirky at first turned out to be a fascinating window into Korea’s rich folk heritage, where humor, reverence, and everyday life all find their place in stone.

After our unexpected but fascinating museum visit, we continued our day with an early dinner at a place that clearly had a reputation: Samcheongdong Sujebi (삼청동 수제비) in Jongno District (101-1 Samcheong-ro). There was a line outside, always a good sign, so we joined without hesitation.

True to our slightly stubborn nature, we didn’t order the restaurant’s signature sujebi (hand-pulled dough soup) like most others, but we should have, I know 🫣. We weren’t terribly hungry yet - it was still a bit early for dinner - and I couldn’t resist the pan-fried mung bean and potato pancakes on the menu. Paired with a bottle of makgeolli (traditional Korean rice wine), it felt like the perfect light meal.

As usual in Korean eateries, a couple of side dishes - kimchi and some green vegetables - were already on the table. (I might have mentioned this in earlier posts, but just in case: nearly every restaurant table in South Korea has a hidden drawer stocked with spoons, chopsticks and paper towels. Practical magic.)

Dinner came to about 34,000 KRW (roughly €21,69), and with full bellies and warm smiles, we headed toward Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP).

As we walked, dusk fell over Seoul. By the time we reached Heunginjimun Gate Park, the city lights had begun to flicker on, and we found ourselves walking along a high stone wall. Yes, our legs were tired from a full day of exploring, but still, we climbed the hill. The view from up there was worth every step.

We eventually made it to DDP, and even at night, the building is breathtaking: a futuristic wave of curves and silver that seems to glow under the city sky. As we wandered the grounds, we stumbled upon a free open-air film night. Families and kids had gathered on the grass to watch animated films projected on a big screen. A stack of plaids had been laid out on the lawn, so naturally, we took off our shoes, sat down, and joined in.