May 1 - 25: (Part 2) A Perfect Day in Seoul: From Cheonggyecheon Stream to Dongdaemun Design Plaza
The weather was absolutely perfect, a solft blue sky with some clouds, the kind of day you want to spend outside.
After a simple breakfast of cereal and instant coffee, Arthur and I set off to explore some beautiful spots on the north side of the Han River. I wanted to start at Euljiro 3(sam)-ga Station and to keep things simple, we walked to Gangnam Station (Line 2) so we could take the subway there without any transfers.
A quick tip when navigating Seoul’s subway system: always check which Exit you need before arriving. Many stations are enormous beneath the streets and choosing the right exit can save you quite a bit of wandering.
A Stroll Along Cheonggyecheon Stream
When we stepped out of the station, we found ourselves surrounded by a fascinating mix of tiny neighborhood shops selling all kinds of odds and ends, standing side by side with towering construction sites reshaping the city skyline.
From there, we made our way to one of my favorite places in Seoul: Cheonggyecheon Stream.
The weather couldn’t have been better for a stroll along the stream. People were walking, chatting, lounging with books or simply sitting by the stream and soaking up the atmosphere.
We grabbed some coffee, found a nice spot to sit and took in the scene.
A few interesting facts about Cheonggyecheon Stream:
- The stream stretches 10.84 km through Seoul.
- It flows eastward before merging with Jungnangcheon Stream near Salgoji Bridge.
- From there, the water flows west, eventually joining the Han River.
- 22 bridges
- A 20 km hiking trail
- Landscaped gardens
- Water-friendly zones
- Wildlife habitats
- Relaxing public spaces along the water
In an earlier blog post, I mentioned a magical moment while crossing Jungnangcheon Bridge, where I saw large fish - likely Gangjeonchi - leaping upstream. Today, we spotted more large fish gently swaying in the soft current of Cheonggyecheon. Now that I know more about the stream, I think they might have been the same kind of fish, making their way upstream to spawn in calmer waters.
Gyeongbokgung Palace and the Changing of the Guard
After our coffee break, we headed toward one of Seoul’s most iconic sites: Gyeongbokgung Palace.
And this time, I wasn’t distracted; I finally noticed the impressive Statue of King Sejong standing tall in Gwanghwamun Square!
And we arrived at exactly the right moment.
At 1 p.m., the Changing of the Guard ceremony was taking place in front of the palace. A colorful and impressive spectacle that recreates the traditional royal guard ceremony of the Joseon Dynasty.
After the ceremony we bought our tickets and wandered inside the beautiful palace grounds. On one of the lawns we unexpectedly came across a fascinating guard combat training demonstration, which made the visit even more memorable.
Watch here for a short video of the demonstration:
As we explored, we noticed many visitors dressed in beautiful, colorful Hanboks, not just foreign tourists, but Korean visitors as well.
Arthur suggested we should try wearing Hanboks too. I told him we’d definitely do that when we return to Seoul after our upcoming three-week journey across South Korea.
Unexpected Encouters at the National Folk Museum of Korea
Before leaving the palace grounds, we visited the National Folk Museum of Korea, where we learned so much about both traditional and modern Korean culture. It was truly fascinating.
While strolling through the museum garden, we came across something delightfully unexpected.
Among the traditional Stone Guardian Posts stood a handful of rather cheeky sculptures: carved stone phalluses and even a carved stone vagina.
We couldn’t help but laugh at the sight. It felt almost surreal to find them so openly displayed in such a public, educational setting.
But a closer look revealed that these weren’t meant as jokes or provocations. In fact, they’re deeply rooted in Korean cultural and spiritual traditions.
These sculptures reflect several important elements of Korean folk heritage:
- Folk spiritual practices, celebrating fertility, life force and community well-being.
- Shamanistic rituals, honoring earth deities through raw, natural symbols.
- Civic symbolism, where ancient spiritual values were woven into shared, outdoor spaces.
What seemed quirky at first turned out to be a fascinating window into Korea’s rich folk heritage, where humor, reverence and everyday life can coexist quite naturally.
Dinner in Samcheong-dong
After our unexpected but fascinating museum visit, we continued our day with an early dinner at a place that clearly had a reputation: Samcheongdong Sujebi (삼청동 수제비) in Jongno District (101-1 Samcheong-ro).
There was already a line outside, always a good sign, so we joined without hesitation.
True to our slightly stubborn nature, we didn’t order the restaurant’s signature sujebi (hand-pulled dough soup) like most others, but we should have, I know 🫣.
We weren’t terribly hungry yet since it was still a bit early for dinner. I couldn’t resist the pan-fried mung bean and potato pancakes on the menu, which paired perfectly with a bottle of makgeolli (traditional Korean rice wine). It felt like the perfect light meal.
As is common in Korean eateries, a couple of side dishes - kimchi and some green vegetables - were already on the table.
And here’s a small cultural detail I always love: nearly every restaurant table in South Korea have a hidden drawer stocked with spoons, chopsticks and paper towels. Practical magic.
Dinner came to about 34,000 KRW (roughly €21,69) and with full bellies and warm smiles, we headed toward Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP).
Evening Walk to Dongdaemun Design Plaza
As we walked, dusk fell over Seoul. By the time we reached Heunginjimun Gate Park, the city lights of Seoul were beginning to glow. We found ourselves walking along a high stone wall. Yes, our legs were tired from a full day of exploring, but still, we climbed the hill.
The view from up there was worth every step.
We eventually made it to DDP and even at night, the building was breathtaking. A futuristic wave of curves and silver that seems to glow under the city sky.
A Perfectly Unplanned Moment
As we wandered the grounds, we stumbled upon a free open-air film night.
Families and kids had gathered on the grass to watch animated films projected on a big screen. A stack of plaids had been laid out on the lawn, so naturally, we took off our shoes, sat down, and joined in.
Watch here for a short video moment at the open-air film night:
For a while, we sat there watching two mischievous cartoon worms getting into all sorts of trouble, surrounded by the soft hum of Seoul at night.
It was one of those perfectly unplanned travel moments: simple, joyful and just a little bit magical.
Mooie foto's Bi! Die wormen lijken qua kleur op een Koreaanse Bert & Ernie ;)
ReplyDeleteDankjewel! Koreaanse Bert & Ernie😂
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