Burned Out and Breaking Free: A Week Without School in Seoul
The Day After the Burn
The day after the burn, I had plans to meet up with friends in the evening to watch the Lantern Parade. I took it easy in the morning, using the quiet time to book my KTX train tickets from Seoul to Busan for the following Sunday. It felt like a milestone: the ticket that would mark the end of my five-week stay in Seoul.
In the afternoon, with the sun shining and the sky perfectly clear, I hopped on the subway and headed to Gyeongbokgung Palace. Surrounded by many tourists dressed in colorful Hanbok, I wandered through the historic grounds, soaking in both the beauty of the palace and the vibrant atmosphere. Since I plan to come back here, I decided not to go inside the palace itself this time. Instead, I made my way toward Cheonggyecheon Stream.
Along the way, something funny happened. I was so focused on watching the many people enjoying the outdoor library that I completely missed the massive statue of King Sejong the Great. I walked right past it without even noticing!
The outdoor library was such a heartwarming sight. People of all ages were sitting and reading in the open air; some alone, some with children, others chatting softly with friends. Along the beautiful Cheonggyecheon Stream, more people were gathered near the water, also making use of the outdoor library beneath rows of hanging lanterns.
I ended up walking quite a long stretch along the stream. It’s such a lovely stroll, surrounded by people simply enjoying the day.
One of the best things is how the stream lies below street level, cutting out the city noise above. You’d hardly believe you’re in the middle of a megacity. All you hear is the gentle sound of flowing water and the cheerful chatter of people passing by.
Large fish swam through the stream, attracting elegant waterbirds like grey herons and even the elegant great egret.
It was a Sunday and the beautiful weather had clearly drawn people outside. Families, kids, grandparents... the whole city seemed to be enjoying this perfect spring afternoon.
Lantern Parade Evening: Front Row Magic and a Surprise Candle
Later that evening I surfaced from Jongno 3 Subway Station and found myself right where the action would soon unfold. The wide road had been closed to traffic and neat rows of chairs were set up for spectators of the Seoul Lotus Lantern Festival.
Since it was still early and the sun hadn’t yet set, I was lucky enough to grab a seat in the very front row.
I messaged Karin and Christian to let them know where I was sitting, hoping they’d spot me easily. I didn’t reserve seats for them, partly because I wasn’t sure how many people were coming and partly because it didn’t seem very polite to hold spots in case they couldn’t make it.
At one point, I thought the Parade had already begun as marching bands started moving across the street, heading toward Jongmyo Shrine. But, luckily, it was just a pre-show movement; the actual parade wouldn’t start until after dark.
As the evening grew dimmer, volunteers began handing out lotus lanterns with little tealights inside. I was delighted to receive one myself; it felt like such a special moment. And when my candle was lit just before the parade started, it served a double purpose: a warm glow in the dark and a little heat for my cold hands. The sun had set, the wind picked up and I started to feel the chill, especially since I hadn’t brought my jacket and only had a cardigan on.
At one point, I got a call from Karin asking where I was sitting. They had come up from Exit 11, but I was on the opposite side of the street. By then, the area had filled up and the road was blocked off for the parade, so they couldn’t cross over to join me. We ended up watching from opposite sides, with the Lantern Parade quite literally in between us.
And the Parade itself? Absolutely fantastic.
A Korean lady sitting next to me and I spent most of the time clapping enthusiastically as group after group passed by with their glowing, colorful displays.
Then something unexpected happened. A girl from one of the passing groups stepped out of the procession and handed me a big lotus lantern.
I was genuinely touched, it felt like such a special, unexpected gift. Holding it in my hands, glowing softly in the night, made the whole experience feel even more magical.
To avoid getting stuck in the massive crowds afterward, we left before the very end. Karin’s date had already left by then, so the three of us went out for a bite to eat. Somehow, we ended up in a street filled exclusively with kebab places… and that’s exactly what we went for.
Believe it or not, it was my very first kebab ever; though it was definitely the Korean version. Turns out, it was a pretty great choice: warm, flavorful and just what I needed after a chilly night outdoors.
Sunday: Museums, Drones and a Touch of Magic
The next afternoon, I had plans to meet up with Karin, Jessica and Thalia to visit the National Museum of Korea.
But, in the morning, I first stopped by Juno Hair in Gangnam; I wanted to take care of the damage from the burn and ended up booking a full treatment for the next morning. It felt like the perfect way to mark my first official day without Korean classes.
We met up around lunchtime near Exit 2, outside on the museum plaza. Since I was the first to arrive, I popped into a Nice to CU convenience store to grab a drink and some cookies.
Sitting on a bench, I watched families -some with kids, some with grandparents- enjoying a leisurely day out. There was a warm, relaxed atmosphere in the air.
The museum itself was both impressive and overwhelming.
Its vast collection tells the story of how Korea came to be, from ancient times to modern day. The influences of China, the impact of Japan and the resilience of Korea’s dynasties all come together on this beautiful peninsula.
It was far too much to take in during one visit, but I was glad to get a sense of its depth.
Around 5 p.m., we wrapped up. Thalia had other plans and the rest of us headed to the Han River, near the Yeongdongdae Bridge, where the long-anticipated (and previously weather-delayed) Drone Show was finally taking place.
We arrived early enough to find a great spot and Karin laid out a picnic blanket her host mother had given her.
Christian joined us shortly after and luckily there was another Nice to CU nearby where we grabbed some Ramen, which we could even prepare right there outside. Korean convenience culture really is something special.
Once the sun went down, the show began.
And what a show it was!
Two thousand drones lit up the sky, forming glowing shapes, symbols and stunning animations above the Han River. It only lasted about twenty minutes, but it was absolutely spectacular.
Here is a short video of the drone show:
Wanting to avoid the crowds at the subway, we decided to walk to a different bridge, crossed it on foot while taking a lot of pictures and only then caught the subway home.
We all headed back to our accommodations with tired feet and happy hearts; greatful for another memorable day in Seoul.
My First Monday Without Classes: Hair Spa Heaven and a Mini Hotel Adventure
Today marked my first Monday without Korean classes, a strange but welcome feeling. Not that I felt lost, but rather free. Free to explore, wander and simply be a tourist in Seoul. While most of my friends were heading back to class, I knew exactly where I was going: the hairdresser.
And wow, what an experience that turned out to be.
I had booked a full hair and scalp treatment and it turned into two full hours of absolute bliss. Not only did I get a heavenly scalp massage, but they also treated my upper back, neck and shoulders. With a soft eye mask over my eyes, I was given a soothing head shower that felt more like standing beneath a gentle waterfall.
My hair was pampered with luxurious shampoo, conditioner and hair oil and to finish it all off, it was carefully trimmed to repair as much of the burn damage as possible.
Okay… it wasn’t cheap.
Especially since I couldn’t resist buying the same shampoo, conditioner and hair oil they used. The treatment alone cost 400,000 KRW and the products added another 200,000 KRW… but honestly, it felt worth every won.
The rest of my day was a bit less glamorous.
When I returned to my hotel around 2:30 p.m., my keycard refused to work. I had a feeling this might happen. When I checked in on my very first day, I had been asked to pay for all five weeks upfront. I hadn’t expected that and my credit card limit wasn’t high enough to cover the full amount at once, so I paid for the first four weeks and had settled the rest a few days later. And yes, just as I suspected, the system must’ve flagged the payment delay and deactivated my keycard. Luckily, the front desk staff fixed it quickly.
As if that wasn’t enough, my eSIM was also expiring today. It made me a bit nervous about going too far from my hotel, just in case I lost access to Naver Maps or couldn’t navigate back. So I played it safe and ended the day with a small grocery run at the nearby convenience store.
Not the most adventurous day, but a perfect balance of indulgence and reality.
And most of all: no school, no schedule… just space.
Tuesday: From Hanoks to Futurism, A Full Day as a Tourist
Tuesday was my day to go fully tourist mode and I embraced it wholeheartedly.
I left my hotel fairly early, determined to beat the tourist crowds to Bukchon Hanok Village, nestled above Gyeongbokgung Palace.
And wow, what a stunning place.
The narrow lanes, lined with traditional Korean hanok houses, instantly transported me to another era. The whole scene was made even more magical by the many people strolling around in Hanboks, the beautiful, flowing garments of Korea’s past. It felt like stepping into a living history book.
I wandered through the steep alleyways, climbing higher and higher, eventually reaching Samcheong Park. I had hoped to find one of the few remaining city walls of Seoul, but it seems parts of it have now been overtaken by the park’s winding trails. I couldn’t find the wall itself, but the park was lovely.
It was filled with local Koreans walking, chatting, or playing games with toddlers from nearby kindergartens. At the park’s entrance, I even spotted something unique: three dust-blowing machines where hikers could clean off their shoes and clothes after their walk.
What a thoughtful little invention!
From there, I continued on foot -walking was the theme of the day- toward the Jongmyo Shrine. Unfortunately, the shrine itself was closed in preparation for an upcoming ceremony. Still, the park surrounding was peaceful and lush and more than worth the visit.
I even stopped to see a small exhibit titled “How Spirit Tablets of Jongmyo Are Made”, then took a break at a traditional tea house with a view over a tranquil pond.
Finally, I reached my last destination: the Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP).
This futuristic, flowing structure is one of Seoul’s architectural highlights and it’s every bit as photogenic as I’d hoped. Inside, I explored several exhibitions until closing time, soaking in both art and atmosphere.
After a full day of exploring -from ancient alleyways to ultra-modern design- I headed back to my hotel, this time giving my legs a break and taking the subway.
I ended the day feeling exhausted but deeply fulfilled, having wandered through a Seoul that beautifully blends the old and the new.
Wednesday: A Slow Start, A Chaotic Subway Mix-up and a Night Out in Hongdae
After all the walking I’d done on Tuesday, I decided to take it easy. I spent the day relaxing and working on my blog, saving my energy for the evening.
I had plans to meet up with friends for a night out. This time, instead of Itaewon, we’d set our sights on the vibrant district of Hongdae.
We planned to meet with a larger group for dinner around 7:30 p.m. near one of the Hongdae subway exits. I left early… plenty of time, or so I thought.
But somewhere along the way, I got distracted and accidentally got off the subway too soon, at Dongjakdaebridge (yes, the one near Seoul National Cemetery), instead of Dangsan. Both names start with a “D” and I guess my brain made a creative leap.
To make things worse, I had no signal for my Naver app, so I couldn’t figure out which direction I needed to go.
I was completely stuck.
Thanks to some Whatsapp troubleshooting from Karin and Jessica, I eventually made it to Hongdae… nearly an hour late.
And even then, I couldn’t find the restaurant (it was tucked away in a basement), until Christian came outside and rescued me.
Phew… first stop: a drink to recover from the travel drama.
After dinner, our big group eventually split up and four of us continued on to explore a few clubs in Hongdae.
Watch this video for a clubbing impression:
One thing quickly became clear though. The average age inside many clubs felt… very young. Even for my friends.
What surprised me most, was the amount of smoking allowed inside the clubs. It felt strange, especially since smoking is so restricted outdoors in Korea. There are even special outdoor smoking cabins equipped with ventilation systems… yep, actual enclosed booths set up in the open air.
Yet inside the clubs, the smoke was everywhere.
By the time I finally made it back to my hotel in the early morning (thank you, taxi driver), I was still buzzing from the night.
On my walk in, I sent a message to Arthur, who was due to arrive in Incheon the next afternoon.
And of course… I’d be there to pick him up.
Looking back, this first stretch of days without Korean classes turned out to be exactly what I didn’t know I needed. After weeks of grammar, homework and early mornings, the city opened up in a different way. Without a classroom schedule to follow, Seoul became my playground again. A place to wander through quiet hanok alleys, admire futuristic architecture, get lost on the subway and even spend two blissful hours in hair spa heaven.
It reminded me that this journey wasn’t only about learning a language. It was also about experiencing the rhythm of the city, embracing small adventures (planned or accidental) and giving myself the freedom to simply explore. And in a city like Seoul, even an ordinary week without school can turn into a collection of unforgettable stories.
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