May 1 - 25 (Part 12) Our Journey Continues: Our First Day in Korea’s ‘Museum Without Walls’
May 13th
While still on Jeju Island, we had already begun planning our next destination after Busan. Our choice quickly became clear: Gyeongju (경주), a city often called ‘the museum without walls’.
Historically known as Seorabeol (서라벌), Gyeongju lies in the southeastern corner of North Gyeongsang Province and once served as the capital of the ancient Silla Kingdom (57 BC - 935 AD). For nearly a thousand years this was the political and cultural heart of the kingdom, which at its height ruled about two-thirds of the Korean peninsula between the 7th and 9th centuries.
With such a rich history surrounding it, Gyeongju felt like the perfect place for the next chapter of our journey.
Staying in a Traditional Hanok
For our stay in Gyeongju we chose something special: a hanok stay.
A hanok (한옥) is a traditional Korean House, first designed during the Joseon Dynasty in the 14th century. Korean architecture carefully considers the relationship between a house and its natural surroundings. One important principle is ‘baesanimsu’ (배산임수): the idea that the ideal house is built with a mountain behind it and water flowing in front.
Even the interior layout reflects harmony with nature and the changing seasons. Hanok styles also differ depending on the region.
We would be staying in a small hanok at Yasun Gallery until Thursday, May 15.
Leaving Busan Behind
We woke up early, had breakfast in our conveniently comfortable hotel room and mapped out our plans for the coming days in Gyeongju. For the last time, I glanced out of our window to the left, where the morning sun was already casting its golden light over Haeundae Beach.
At noon we checked out, picked up our car, once again a Kia, but this time grey, from the hotel garage and hit the road. Busan slowly disappeared behind us as we headed toward Gyeongju.
The drive would take about an hour and a half and since check-in at the hanok was only at 3 p.m., we had plenty of time.
Our stay was located about 6.5 km from the city center, in a quiet area near Namsam Mountain and Gyeongju National Park, a slower-paced setting that already sounded promising.
A Café Stop Before Check-In
Of course we arrived a little too early and couldn’t reach the owner yet, so we decided to stop for lunch.
We stopped at ‘Café Forward’, which unfortunately didn’t serve lunch. Still, the place was beautifully located. Just outside the large windows was what looked like an endless shallow pool, giving the café a calm and almost meditative atmosphere.
We settled for a large latte and a slice of cake, which, honestly, filled the stomach quite well.
A Warm Hanok Welcome
At 3 p.m. we returned to the hanok stay and what a beautiful place it was.
Our hostess, Jeong Hee, welcomed us warmly and quietly. Inside the hanok she served warm chrysanthemum tea (국화차) and homemade sweets on a wooden tray.
Each glass cup contained a dried chrysanthemum blossom that slowly unfolded in the hot water. In Korea, chrysanthemum tea is traditionally associated with ‘calmness’, ‘longevity’ and ‘quiet reflection’. It is also believed to help with relaxation, eye fatigue and cooling the body.
Serving flower tea in glass cups is intentional. The guest can watch the blossom slowly open, turning the tea into a small visual moment of calm rather than just a drink. The flavor was delicate: light, floral and slightly honey-like.
Alongside the tea we were served small sweets which I believe were Yakgwa (약과), traditional honey-ginger cookies made with wheat flour and sesame oil, deep-fried and soaked in syrup.
In many hanok stays, tea is offered as a quiet gesture of welcome rather than a formal ceremony. The idea is to create ‘jeong’ (정), a feeling of warmth and connection between host and guest.
And then we realized something amusing: our hostess’s name was Jeong.
A coincidence that felt strangely fitting.
Cheomseongdae: Observing the Stars
After settling into our small but private hanok, we decided to head into the center of Gyeongju to visit Cheomseongdae Observatory (첨성대).
This remarkable structure is the oldest surviving astronomical observatory in East Asia, built during the Silla period between 632 and 646 AD during the reign of Queen Seondeok.
Although it looks simple at first glance, its design contains remarkable symbolism. The 12 stones at the base represent the months of the year. From top to bottom the tower consists of 30 layers, symbolizing the days of a month and in total 366 stones were used in its construction, roughly corresponding to the days of the year.
Its name literally means ‘the platform for observing the stars’.
Standing there, looking at this ancient structure surrounded by open green fields, it was easy to imagine scholars from the Silla kingdom studying the night sky here more than a thousand years ago.
Wandering Through Gyerim Forest
From Cheomseongdae we continued toward Gyerim Forest.
The name Gyerim (계림) means ‘forest of cranes’. According to legend, cranes once lived here, giving the forest its poetic name.
The forest is closely connected to the history of the Silla kingdom and lies near several important historical sites, including the birthplace of King Muyeol, one of the key figures who helped unify the Korean peninsula under Silla rule.
Walking through the forest felt like stepping back in time. Tall trees filtered the sunlight, the air was calm and the combination of nature and history created a quiet atmosphere of reflection.
Gyeongjuhyanggyo: A Confucian School
Just beside the forest lies a walled compound known as Gyeongjuhyanggyo.
A ‘hyanggyo’ was a local public educational institution during the Goryeo (918-1392) and Joseon (1392-1910) dynasties. Confucianism formed the philosophical foundation of Joseon society and such schools were established throughout the country to promote Confucian education and values.
The complex usually includes two main buildings:
-a lecture hall called Myeongyundang ,where students studied and
-a shrine called Daeseongjeon, where Confucian sages are honored.
Here is a link to a short video of the complex:
Gyeongjuhyanggyo is the largest Confucian school in the Gyeonsang region, enshrining 25 Confucian scholars and men of virtue.
Interestingly, this site had already served as an educational center as early as the 7th century, when Gyeongju was still the capital of Silla.
While walking around the grounds of Gyeongjuhyanggyo, I came across this historic well. It may look simple, but it carries a story that goes back to the Silla period (57 BC – 935 AD).
According to legend, this site was once the royal residence of Princess Yoseok, the daughter of King Muyeol. After being widowed, she gave birth to a son with the famous monk Wonhyo. That son, Seol Chong, would later become one of the most renowned scholars of the Unified Silla period. It is said that his wisdom came from drinking water from this very well, which is why it became known as the ‘water of cleverness and brightness’.
The well, built from stacked stone in a cylindrical shape, is about 5.8 meters deep and 80 centimeters wide, making it one of the largest wells dating back to the Silla period.
Standing there, it’s fascinating to imagine how many people throughout history may have stopped here, perhaps hoping that a sip of its legendary water would bring them a little extra wisdom.
The Royal Tombs of Silla
From the forest we could see the Inwang-dong ancient tombs of the Silla dynasty.
These massive grassy burial mounds date from 57 BC to 935 AD and were built for royalty and high-ranking elites of the Silla kingdom.
Beneath the earth lie stone burial chambers that once contained remarkable artifacts such as gold crowns, jewelry and pottery. These tombs represent the development of Silla burial traditions before Buddhist-influenced cremation later became more common.
These monumental mounds remain one of the most recognizable features of Gyeongju’s landscape.
A Rare Tree on a Tumulus
Near Cheomseongdae we noticed something unusual: a leaning pine tree growing on top of a grassy tumulus near Munhosa Shrine.
Most of the other tumuli in the area are carefully maintained and kept free of trees and large plants. Seeing a fully grown pine tree rising from the mound was therefore quite rare, as if nature had quietly reclaimed a small part of the ancient landscape.
Sunset at Woljeonggyo Bridge
Before calling it a day we made one more stop: Woljeonggyo Bridge (월정교).
According to the historical chronicle ‘Samguk Sagi’ (The History of the Three Kingdoms), this bridge was originally built in 760 AD during the reign of King Gyeongdeok of Silla.
For centuries only the stone piers remained. After years of archaeological research, the bridge was carefully reconstructed based on historical evidence.
Excavations revealed that the original bridge was about 60 meters long and traces of burnt wood and roof tiles suggest it once supported a covered tower structure built above the bridge.
As the sun slowly began to set, the timing could not have been more perfect. The warm evening light reflected beautifully on the wooden bridge and the water below, creating the perfect scene for photographs. We lingered there for a while, enjoying the peaceful atmosphere of the evening.
Our first day in Gyeongju was already filled with history, beauty and quiet discoveries.
Dinner and a Small Celebration
By now it was definitely time for dinner.
Our hostess had created a charming little hand-drawn booklet about the neighborhood, filled with stories and recommendations for restaurants and cafés. I had taken photos of the pages earlier, so we browsed through them while deciding where to go.
We eventually chose the Duck Bulgogi Restaurant.
And it turned out to be a perfect choice.
The meal was delicious and full of flavor and of course we paired it with a bottle of makgeolli, Korea’s traditional rice wine.
We finished every bite… and the entire bottle of makgeolli as well.
A perfect way to celebrate our first day in Gyeongju, the museum without walls.
Returning to Our Hanok
By the time we returned to our hanok stay it was already dark.
But that made the arrival even more magical.
The hanok was beautifully illuminated from the outside, softly lighting up the wooden structure and the stone steps leading up to our little house. In the quiet of the evening we could see the traditional architecture glowing gently in the night: calm, peaceful and timeless.
A fitting end to our first day in Gyeongju.
Because a hanok does not have beds, we will sleep on the heated ground tonight for the first time. This will be really exciting.
It feels like a special way to experience traditional Korean life. The warm floor, called ‘ondol’, is something we have heard about many times, but tonight we will finally understand what it actually feels like to sleep on it. I’m curious whether it will be as comfortable as people say and it makes the whole stay in the hanok feel even more authentic and memorable.
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