May 1 - 25: (Part 4) Goodbye Seoul, Hello Busan

Sunday, May 4th

This afternoon marked the start of a new chapter in our South Korea adventure… we left Seoul, my temporary home for the past five weeks, and boarded the KTX train to Busan.

Looking back, I’m glad I booked the train tickets well in advance. May is packed with national holidays like Children’s Day, Buddha’s Birthday, and Parents’ Day, which meant nearly all KTX trains were sold out. Luckily, we managed to secure seats on an afternoon train. Talk about good timing!

Leaving my room (nr. 11.02) felt a little bittersweet. That small space had been my home base for five weeks: filled with routines, late-night thoughts, and the occasional air conditioning battle (which the guy at reception still remembered all too well). He was actually the same person who had done my check-in, and as I was checking out, he apologized once more for the airco troubles. I couldn’t help but smile at how he still remembered.

Before heading out, I had a spontaneous thought: what if I asked whether “my room” would be available again for the final two days before flying home? To my surprise, it was! So, on May 22nd, after our three-week tour through South Korea, I’ll be back… same room, familiar surroundings. I didn’t mention to the staff that Arthur arrived on May 1st and technically, I wasn’t alone anymore…but let’s just say, I left that part out, even during check-out. Some details are best kept simple, right?

With check-out behind us, we still had a few hours to spare before catching the train at 15:45. We wandered around Gangnam one last time, soaking it all in. 

For lunch, I couldn’t resist stopping by my usual spot - Dunkin’ Wonders - the place where I’ve fueled up countless mornings with a latte and my green wrap with chicken before heading to class. Funny how small routines become such comforting anchors.

After lunch, we grabbed our suitcases from the hotel, said goodbye to the staff, and called an Uber to Seoul Station. Despite having plenty of time on paper, Seoul’s traffic reminded us that nothing’s ever entirely predictable in this city. The station itself was packed, and as usual, they only announced our platform about 15 minutes before departure. Just enough time to navigate the crowds and find our train.

Watch this video: Seoul Station: https://youtube.com/shorts/KTGbPjCpffE?si=EB1cOJP3pmkItTiX

Thankfully, everything went smoothly from there. We had comfortable seats, space for our luggage nearby, and right on schedule, the KTX pulled out of the station. Next stop: Busan. A whole new city, new surroundings and new stories to discover…

Busan: Bridges, Hidden Gems & Accidental Temples

We arrived right on schedule at Busan Station and ordered an Uber to our hotel, AG405, our home for the next few days until the 8th of May. When I first booked AG405, I have to admit… the name didn’t exactly spark images of a romantic seaside stay. To be honest, it sounded more like an office building, a technical product, or maybe even a flight number. Definitely not the kind of name that makes you picture cozy hotel rooms with sweeping views of the Gwangandaegyo Bridge.

(But curiosity got the better of us, so on the day we checked out, we finally asked where the name came from. And to our surprise, it turned out to be much more meaningful than expected: AG405 stands for Amazing Grace 405… referring to the world famous hymn. The owner, a very religious person, chose the name inspired by this hymn, giving the hotel a meaningful and heartfelt identity. Suddenly, the name didn’t feel so technical anymore, it felt thoughtful and even a little poetic. Funny how things can surprise you once you know the story behind them.)

The ride to the hotel took about half an hour, and by the time we reached the hotel, it was already dark outside. But stepping into our room made up for that, I had booked one with a stunning view overlooking the Gwangandaegyo Bridge, the iconic bridge that lights up the coastline. The hotel was tucked away in a quiet spot, yet only a 10-minute walk from lively Gwangalli Beach.

From our window, we could see a small harbor behind the bridge, with boats sailing out into the night. At first, we thought they might be heading for sea tours in the dark. Later, we realized those boats -even some sailing yachts- were packed with tourists, cruising under the glow of the bridge towards Gwangalli Beach.

Watch this video for the view: https://youtu.be/jxu6IprCpSw?si=CJV5bHPI-juFkNxs

After unpacking and freshening up, we wanted to wander around the neighbourhood and find a cozy spot for a late dinner. But by then, most places were closing; the downside of walking a lot before dinner. Luckily, we stumbled upon a hidden gem that stayed open until 2 AM: Chwi Hwa Mong (취화몽), located at 175-14 Millak-dong, Suyeong-gu, Busan. Tucked away but worth the search: great food, good vibes, exactly what we needed.

On our way back to the hotel, we came across an overcrowded place buzzing with music and energy: Millac The Market. There were people lining up outside, eager to get in. Inside, a modern cultural space unfolded, young people sitting on a kind of indoor tribune with drinks in hand, while downstairs, a DJ was spinning live music and the crowd was dancing. Millac The Market is a trendy, modern hotspot right by Gwangalli Beach where locals and travelers come together to eat, listen to music, dance and soak in the coastal atmosphere. It looked like the place to be if you wanted to dive into Busan’s nightlife.

“Doing the Bianca” (비앙카하다) at the Temple (5th of May)

The next morning, our plan was to visit a Buddhist temple near Busan. Well…at least, that was the plan. As you may know by now, sometimes I have a habit of accidentally turning plans into surprises…”doing the Bianca”, as my friends have turned my name into a verb because of my little clumsy mistakes. I thought we were heading to the Bulguksa Temple, but somehow my brain and Naver Maps took us towards Haedong Younggungsa Temple, the beautiful coastal temple further north.

It was public holiday, actually, two holidays in one: Buddha’s Birthday and Children’s Day, so traffic was intense. Public transport in Busan isn’t quite like Seoul’s efficient network. Busan stretches along the coast with beaches, hills and mountains, making subway connections more complicated. So, we opted for an Uber, which turned out to be a smart move, but even then, getting near the temple was a challenge. After a few attempts, our driver politely asked us to walk the final 100 meters.

The area was packed with people. It took patience to weave through the crowd, but it was worth it. Of course, I had to visit the bathroom first (the usual), and with the long queue at the women’s restroom, Arthur had to wait for me. When I finally came out, I couldn’t find him, scanning the sea of people, assuming he was lost in the crowd.

Turns out… he wasn’t standing at all. There he was, sitting comfortably among other people on the ground, quietly making a bracelet out of black beads: one for himself, and one for me. Classic. When I returned, he was right where I left him, still waiting, bracelet in hand. A simple yet symbolic bracelet made by hand at this sacred seaside temple. 

In Korean Buddhism, black beads symbolize protection, grounding and the quiet strength to absorb and let go of negativity. Making the bracelet at Haedong Yonggungsa, with the ocean breeze around us and lanterns swaying in the wind, gave it a deeper meaning; one of connection, intention and presence. That bracelet isn’t just a souvenir, it carries the memory of that peaceful day by the sea, and a quiet moment of mindfulness in the midst of celebration.

We wandered around the temple grounds, soaking in the festive atmosphere and the breathtaking seaside views. At one point, we joined a line where volunteers handed out small tomatoes and rice cakes, such a simple but heartwarming gesture.

Of course, I had my clumsy moment (again). The bracelet Arthur made for me broke, and beads went flying everywhere between people’s feet. As I scrambled to collect them, I noticed I had way more beads than I started with… turns out, I wasn’t the only one dropping them that day! Later that evening, back at our hotel, Arthur quietly made the bracelet again… this time with a stronger knot. Somehow, that second version meant even more than the first. It wasn’t just a string of beads anymore. It was a symbol of care, resilience, and the beauty of small things made whole again. A gentle reminder that even when something breaks, it can still be put back together, with patience, love and intention.

Before leaving, we bought two colorful hearts for 10,000 KRW and wrote our wishes on them. Mine was simple but hopeful: for the wars happening in the world to finally come to an end.

Coastal Walks, Coffee, and Hidden Gems

After our temple visit, we followed the coastal path north. The sun was still out and many people strolled along the sea, enjoying the fresh air. Along the way, we noticed something charming: all kinds of pebble towers, carefully stacked by passersby. Some were small and delicate, others surprisingly tall; a quiet collection of balancing stones, each left behind by someone, as if marking their moment by the sea.

We decided to stop for a late lunch at a café near the luxurious Ananti Cove, a huge apartment complex tucked away on the cliffs. From our seat, we watched the clouds slowly rolling in from the water.

After our late lunch, we continued walking along the coastal path, heading towards a small harbour. But before we reached it, something unexpected caught our eye… perched on the rocky cliffs was Busan’s unique Gijang Temple, easily the tiniest temple we had ever seen. It looked almost hidden between the rocks, like a secret tucket away for those paying close attention.

Despite its size -or maybe because of it- people were lining up patiently, waiting for their turn to step inside and say a prayer. There was something endearing about the whole scene: the vast coastline, the endless sea, and there in the middle of it all, this tiny, humble temple quietly holding its place.

We walked on until we finally reached Yeonhwa-ri Harbour, a small, peaceful place where we decided it was time for coffee and maybe something sweet. That’s how we ended up at Hwabong Coffee (356 Yeonhwa-ri, Gijang-eup, Gijang-gun, Busan), a cozy little spot with a beautiful sea view.

We ordered our usual lattes and took them up to the third floor, where we could sit quietly, enjoy the view, and let the calm atmosphere sink in. It was only later, when we went downstairs to pay, that we noticed the staff preparing coffee for someone else… slowly, carefully, glass by glass. That’s when we realized they offered hand-dripped coffee, brewed fresh per cup, like a tiny ritual in itself. The hot water poured in steady streams over freshly ground beans, releasing rich aromas with every drop.

The funny thing? We only discovered that after we’d already finished our lattes. One of those moments you think, “If only we had known before.” But maybe that’s part of the charm, some places save their little secrets until the very end.

Watch this video: https://youtube.com/shorts/aNnit0j68sQ?si=5nyjjxcY_uMuynWE

And speaking of the end… rain clouds gathered fast, so we ordered an Uber back to the hotel, tired but happy after another one of those unplanned but perfectly imperfect days.

Back at the hotel, we freshened up and wanted to head out again for a nice evening walk to Gwangalli Beach. But just before we left, we noticed the little harbour behind the Busan Gwangandaegyo Bridge coming to life. All kinds of boats, including some sailing boats, were getting ready to head out, packed with tourists going on their night tours towards Gwangalli Beach. The sight of the boats, lights flickering, slowly drifting out to sea added to the atmosphere of the evening, making the city feel lively yet calm at the same time.

Watch this video of boats heading out of the harbour: https://youtube.com/shorts/660x5qIN3ps?si=X0GKosszuZhCFiqW

We strolled along Gwangalli Beach, where the colourful lights illuminated the rocks next to the beach, casting playful reflections across the water. Of course, we couldn’t resist taking some vibrant, cheerful pictures… the kind of photos that instantly remind you of the atmosphere of a warm summer night by the sea.

On our way back to the hotel, the weather shifted once more, and light rain began to fall again. But by now, that combination of sea breeze, city lights and unpredictable weather had become part of the charm of our first days in Busan.