May 1 - 25 (Part 7) Jeju Island

My South Korean story isn’t finished yet and this next chapter (on Jeju Island) deserves to be told…

Goodmorning, Jeju! It’s the 9th of May 2025

Rain, Rock Temples & Quiet Wisdom

The day begins grey and rainy, with powerful waves crashing in front of the hotel. Between those wild waves and the lush green hotel garden, I spot a lonely pink umbrella moving slowly along the road. Somehow, that single splash of colour makes everything feel less gloomy. So no, the weather wasn’t going to stop us from exploring Jeju Island.

At least we could start driving.

But first: lunch. Or maybe a very late breakfast 🤭. We stopped at a small restaurant along the road, probably still on the main road through Seogwipo, though the name has escaped me. It was filled with locals, which is always a good sign. And then there was the Robot. Yes, a robot delivering food. We ordered and paid through a tablet carefully fixed on our table. Sadly, our robotic waiter never came to us, perhaps he was too busy elsewhere. But, the experience alone made the stop memorable.

Here is a short video where you can see our Robot Waiter just ‘walking’ past our table:

https://youtube.com/shorts/2AqPFwRxn0Q?si=77O7u1oQqILJ2wSR

Sanbangsan Mountain & the Cave Temple

One of our destinations for the day was Sanbangsan Mountain, specifically to visit Sanbanggulsa Temple (산방굴사), literally Sanbang Cave Temple. The name tells its own story: san (산) means mountain, bang (방) means room and gulsa (굴사) refers to a cave temple (donggul + sawon).

Sanbanggulsa is located about 150 metres above sea level on Mt. Sanbangsan (395.2m), offering spectacular views over the ocean. Because of its elevation and proximity to the sea, the peak is often wrapped in clouds… and today was no exception 😬.

As we drove toward the mountain, the rain only grew heavier. We secretly hoped it would stop by the time we arrived… It didn’t. But walking up the mountain through pouring rain somehow felt right. This, too, was Jeju: raw, dramatic and honest.

Sanbangsan Mountain itself was formed by violent volcanic activity some 700,000-800,000 years ago and is essentially a massice lava dome. The southern cliffs are marked by striking geological features: weathering pits, talus scree slopes and dramatic rock formations rising up to 200 metres high.

Along the slippery stone steps, made even trickier by the rain, we walked between Sanbangsa Temple and Bomunsa Temple, eventually reaching the Sanbanggulsa Grotto.

Legends, Tears & Sacred Water

According to legend, Sanbangsan Mountain was created by Grandmother Seolmundae, who tore off and threw the peak of Baengnokdam Crater Lake. Halfway up the southern slope lies Sanbanggulsa Grotto, one of the Ten Best Scenic Views of Yeongju. (But, unfortunately, not today😢)

Inside the cave, a statue of Buddha is enshrined and clear water (normally slowly drips, but today it was pouring out) from the rock walls. This water is known as the tears of Sanbangdeok, a woman who became a goddess after enduring great suffering in the human world.

The surrounding rock face is also a protected Natural Monument, home to rare plant species clinging to the cliff walls.

Quiet Inspiration

I don’t know much about Buddhism. But, walking through this mountain, surrounded by Buddha statues, rain, clouds and silence, deeply moved me. Despite the weather, the atmosphere was peaceful; a place that demanded respect simply by excisting.

Throughout the temple grounds, Buddha’s words appeared again and again:

“One who controls one’s mind is the true master.”
“Now is the most precious time. Respect the present moment.”
“Love yourself. You are your most precious treasure.”
“Even small acts of kindness lead to great happiness.”
“Gentle speech brings peace.”
“Calmness of mind brings true happiness.”

We also encountered The Wheel of the Noble Eightfold Path, representing the Threefold Way of Buddhist life: Ethics, Meditation and Wisdom.

Ethics: Right Action - Right Speech - Right Livelihood

Meditation: Right Mindfulness - Right Effort - Right Concentration

Wisdom: Right Understanding - Right Intention

➜ Simple Principles, yet Incredibly Powerful!

Yakcheonsa Temple: Grandeur & Stillness

After wandering through the temple grounds of Sanbangsan Mountain, we headed out toward our next destination: Yakcheonsa Temple, located halfway back to Seogwipo and known as the largest Buddhist temple on Jeju Island.

Built in 1981 on the remains of a small hermitage called Yaksuam, Yakcheonsa means “Temple Where Medicinal Water Flows”. Villagers believed the temple grounds contained healing water and remarkably, these mineral springs have never dried up. Pilgrims still drink from them today.

We parked the car and walked through a tree-lined lane before the massive temple slowly revealed itself. Rain or not, its presence was overwhelming.

To escape the downpour for a while, we first stepped into a souvenir building and that’s where we met Kim, a young American-Korean woman travelling alone, for the second time. She asked if we would take a selfie with her. She wanted to fill her memories not just with places, but with people too. Of course, we said yes.

She told us about Eongtto Falls, nearby and how spectacular they were after heavy rain. She gave us the address. We would go later, we promised with a smile.

The Largest Prayer Hall in East Asia

The main building, Daejeokgwangjeon, is monumental: three stories above ground, one below, nearly 30 metres high and covering over 3,300 square metres. It is considered the largest prayer all in East Asia.

Inside stands the highlight: a 4.5 metre tall wooden statue of Vairocana Buddha, flanked by two smaller Buddhas, believed to be the largest wooden Buddha statue in South Korea. The second floor holds 80,000 gilt-bronze Buddha statues, while the third glows softly with countless lanterns.

We climbed each floor, admiring the detailed frescoes and the quiet reverence of the space. Outside, the rhythmic sound of a monk striking his wooden moktak bowl echoed through the rain.

Here is a short video of the rhythmic sound of a monk striking his wooden moktak bowl:

https://youtu.be/O7DrJFr4P0E?si=lqQc0_Suxugw5NRe

Here is a video of climbing up the stairs of Daejeokgwangjeon, to watch the largest prayer hall from above…: https://youtube.com/shorts/01W_7ag8Sw4?si=0Ft0hZoMp0Ln1L4e

Yakcheonsa is well known for its templestay programs, welcoming visitors seeking rest, reflection and a break from daily life. Guests wear temple clothing, learn etiquette and may even join early morning chants (if they can wake up in time).

Before leaving, we explored smaller buildings filled with countless little monk statues, each with different expressions and poses. So many of them made us laugh out loud. Enlightenment, apparently, has many faces.