May 1 - 25: (Part 3) Arthur’s First Birthday in South Korea: Seaweed Soup, Museum Treasures & an Accidental Dinner

Today was Arthur’s birthday, his very first one in South Korea. And of course, I had a little surprise prepared for him… Korean-style.

A few days earlier, I picked up a bowl of miyeok-guk (미역국), or seaweed soup, from a local shop. In Korea, this soup is traditionally eaten on birthdays. It’s more than a warm meal, it carries a deeper meaning.

Miyeok-guk is a symbolic dish that honors Samsin Halmoni, the goddess who watches over childbirth and mothers. By eating miyeok-guk on your birthday, you’re essentially paying quiet tribute to your mother for bringing you into the world.

A Quick Stop at Daiso

In preparation, I also made a quick stop at Daiso; the famous one-stop shop where you can find almost anything.

There seems to be one on nearly every corner in Seoul and it’s where many Koreans often go for affordable everyday items: household goods, beauty products, kitchenware, snacks, pet supplies, stationery and plenty of quirky little things you didn’t know you needed. 

I picked up a small birthday candlelight that plays the Happy Birthday tune and a festive “Happy Birthday” sign to put on a cake. Perfect for a low-key celebration on the go.

Arthur Meets His First Birthday Soup

This morning, I heated up the soup in the microwave and handed it to Arthur with a big grin. 

He bravely tried a few spoonfuls, then slowly handed the bowl back to me. 

“Hmmm”, he said diplomatically. “Interesting…” 

Let’s just say, he’s not quite used to Korean flavors…yet! After all, he had only arrived in South Korea two days earlier. The taste of miyeok-guk might take a bit of getting used to. 

Luckily, we had three full weeks of traveling ahead of us across South Korea, plenty of time for his palate to adjust.

A Birthday Visit to the National Museum of Korea

To continue the celebration, I suggested a visit to the National Museum of Korea. 

I had already been there once before during my five weeks in Seoul, but the museum is enormous, I had barely scratched the surface. It felt like the perfect mix of culture and calm for a birthday morning.

From Sinnonhyeon Station, we hopped on Line 9, transferred at Dongjak Station to Line 4 and rode it to Ichon Station. From there, we followed the underground walkway next to Exit 2, which conveniently leads straight to the museum grounds.

Before heading inside, we stopped at A Twosome Place, a cozy café right next to the museum. 

I ordered two café lattes and a big slice of cake. I asked the barista if I could add a birthday candle to the cake, but she gently declined. Understandably, because of fire safety rules. 

I had a feeling that might be the case, but luckily I’d come prepared. 

I still had the cheerful “Happy Birthday” letters from Daiso, which I stuck into the cake as a little decoration.

So there we were: 

two lattes, one cake, a soft hum of “Happy Birthday” and a quiet morning of celebrating in the shadow of one of Korea’s most beautiful museums.

Then it was finally time to head inside.

The Magnificent Ten-Story Stone Pagoda

When you enter the National Museum of Korea, one monument immediately demands your attention: the breathtaking Ten-story Stone Pagoda. 

Originating from the Gyeongcheonsa Temple site in Gaepung, Gyeonggi-do Province, this masterpiece dates back to 1348, the fourth year of King Chungmok’s reign of the Goryeo Dynasty. It’s designated as National Treasure No. 86 and for a good reason. 

The pagoda stands 13,5m in height. Unlike most Goryeo-era pagodas, this pagoda is made from marble. The preferred material of Korean sculptors was generally granite. 

The pagoda sits on a three-tiered foundation which projects in four directions like a cross. The base of the pagoda displays a detailed relief depicting the legendary journey of the Tang Dynasty monk Xuanzang, who travelled all the way to India to bring Buddhist scriptures back to China. 

The first four levels are decorated with exquisite carvings of Buddhist assemblies. Delecate works that still feel alive centuries later.

This pagoda’s journey is a story in itself. It was illicitly transferred to Japan in 1907, but thankfully it was returned to Korea in 1918, where it n ow stands proudly in the museum.

A Museum That Can Fill an Entire Day

We spent hours exploring the museum’s galleries. 

Although I had visited before with friends, this time we covered all the floors, from prehistoric artifacts and ancient pottery to calligraphy, Buddhist art and elegant Joseon-era ceramics. 

Somewhere along the way, our energy started to fade and our brains were overflowing with history. We were absorbing so much that by the end, it felt like we couldn’t see anymore. Just walking through the motions, minds full, feet heavy. 

So, we decided it was time to make our way home for a short break before dinner.

The Birthday Dinner Mix-Up

And this is where the story takes a little turn.

Earlier that morning, I looked up the dinner restaurant on Naver Map, thinking it was called Mukjeon (묵전). I even planned our route: take Line 9 from Sinnonyeon, transfer at Seonjeongneung to the Suin-Bundang Line, get off at Apgujeongrodeo Station, take Exit 6 and walk nine minutes to 22 Eonju-ro 168-gil. 

But, just after that, Arthur told me, “No, I think it’s actually Mandujip (만두집),” a different restaurant entirely. So I looked that up too. All good, mistake caught, or so I thought.

Fast forward to the evening.

We got ready, a bit tired from the museum and I opened Naver Map again… 

…only I accidentally pulled up the first route. 

So, off we went, confident and completely unaware.

A Surprisingly Lovely Accident

We arrived at Mukjeon, which looked lovely and upscale. Nothing about it struck us as wrong.

The menu wasn’t exactly what you’d expect from a dumpling place, but we asked the waiter for recommendations and ended up having a wonderful meal. 

Elegant dishes, good service, relaxed atmosphere. There was even a separate pub entrance that gave the place a trendy edge.

 

After dinner, we strolled through the peaceful streets of Sinsa-dong, enjoying the mild spring air and the calm buzz of Gangnam at night. 

It was the kind of evening that feels like a perfect wrap to a special day.

The Realization… One Day Later

It wasn’t until the next day that the penny dropped. I was scrolling through something on my phone, I suddenly came across the real Mandujip.

I burst out laughing.

That was the restaurant Arthur had meant all along. 

It suddenly made perfect sense. The name Mandujip (만두집) literally means “dumpling house”, which explained why the menu at Mukjeon, where we had ended up the night before, hadn’t looked quite like what you’d expect from a dumpling restaurant.

The names both started with an “M”, and with everything in Hangeul, it was an easy mix-up. 

But honestly, it turned out to be a wonderful mistake.

The restaurant we had gone to was beautiful and upscale, the dishes were elegant and the meal was absolutely delicious. For Arthur’s birthday dinner, the outcome couldn’t have been more perfect. Even if it wasn’t exactly where we had planned to go.

(For the record: Mandujip is near Exit 6 of Apgujeongrodeo Station, just a 3-minute walk away at 661-1 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam. Next time!)

And honestly, neither of us minded in the slightest. The food was wonderful, the atmosphere lovely and there was even an unexpected laugh after the meal. At one point Arthur came back from the restroom grinning, showed me a photo and said: “There were ice cubes in the urinal.”

Of course, I didn’t see it myself, but I couldn’t stop laughing. One of those wonderfully odd little details that somehow become part of the memory.

A Birthday to Remember

And so, Arthur’s first birthday in South Korea turned into a day of seaweed soup, ancient relics, birthday cake and an accidental dinner, made complete with a small but unforgettable surprise in the restroom.

Sometimes the best travel memories are the ones that don’t go according to plan.