May 1 - 25: (Part 3)

 A Day of History, A Birthday Mix-up and a Delightful Surprise (May 3rd)

Today was Arthur’s birthday, his very first one in South Korea. And I had a little surprise prepared for him, Korean-style.

A few days earlier, I picked up a bowl of miyeok-guk (미역국), or seaweed soup, from a local shop. In Korea, this soup is traditionally eaten on birthdays. It’s more than a warm meal, it’s a symbolic dish that honors Samsin Halmoni, the goddess who watches over childbirth and mothers. By eating miyeok-guk on your birthday, you’re essentially paying quiet tribute to your mother for bringing you into the world.

In preparation, I also made a quick stop at Daiso; the one-stop shop for literally everything. There’s one on practically every corner in Seoul, and it’s where Koreans often go for affordable household items, beauty products, kitchenware, snacks, pet supplies, stationery, and quirky little finds you didn’t know you needed. I picked up a small birthday candlelight that plays the Happy Birthday tune and a festive “Happy Birthday” sign to put on a cake. Perfect for a low-key celebration on the go.

This morning, I heated up the soup in the microwave and handed it to Arthur with a grin. He gamely tried a few spoonfuls, then slowly handed it back to me. “Hmm”, he said diplomatically, “interesting…” Let’s just say, he’s not quite used to Korean flavors…yet! He only arrived in South Korea two days ago, and the taste of miyeok-guk might take a bit of getting used to. But we have three full weeks of travel ahead of us across South Korea, plenty of time for his palate to adjust.

To continue the celebration, I suggested a visit to the National Museum of Korea. I’d already been there once before during my five weeks in Seoul, but the museum is so vast I hadn’t even scratched the surface. It felt like the perfect mix of culture and calm for a birthday morning.

From Sinnonhyeon Station, we hopped on Line 9, transferred at Dongjak Station to Line 4, and rode it to Ichon Station. From there, we followed the underground walkway next to Exit 2, which conveniently leads straight to the museum grounds.

Before heading inside, we stopped at A Twosome Place, a cozy café right next to the museum. I ordered two café lattes and a big slice of cake. I asked the barista if I could add a birthday candle to the cake, but she gently declined. Understandably, because of fire safety rules. I had a feeling that might be the case, but luckily I’d come prepared. I still had the cheerful “Happy Birthday” letters from Daiso, which I stuck into the cake as a little decoration.

So there we were: two lattes, one cake, a soft hum of “Happy Birthday”, and a quiet morning of celebrating in the shadow of one of Korea’s most beautiful museums.

                                                        

Then, finally, it was time to head inside.

When you enter the National Museum of Korea, one monument immediately demands your attention: the breathtaking Ten-story Stone Pagoda. Originating from the Gyeongcheonsa Temple site in Gaepung, Gyeonggi-do Province, this masterpiece dates back to 1348, the fourth year of King Chungmok’s reign. It’s designated as National Treasure No. 86, and for a good reason. 

    The pagoda stands 13,5m in height. Unlike most Goryeo-era pagodas, this pagoda is made from marble. The preferred material of Korean sculptors was generally granite. The pagoda sits on a three-tiered foundation which projects in four directions like a cross. The base of the pagoda displays a detailed relief depicting the legendary journey of the Tang Dynasty monk Xuanzang, who travelled all the way to India to bring Buddhist scriptures back to China. The first to fourth stories of the pagoda are adorned with exquisite carvings of Buddhist assemblies. This pagoda’s journey is a story in itself. It was illicitly transferred to Japan in 1907 and, thankfully, returned to Korea in 1918.

We spent hours exploring the museum’s halls. I’d been before with friends, but this time we covered all the floors, from prehistoric artifacts to calligraphy, Buddhist art and Joseon ceramics. Somewhere along the way, our energy started to fade. We were absorbing so much that by the end, it felt like we couldn’t see anymore; just walking through the motions, minds full, feet heavy. So, we made our way home for a break before dinner.

Now, here’s where the story takes a little turn.

That morning, I looked up the dinner restaurant on Naver Map, thinking it was called Mukjeon (묵전). I even planned our route: take Line 9 from Sinnonyeon, transfer at Seonjeongneung to the Suin-Bundang Line, get off at Apgujeongrodeo Station, take Exit 6, and walk 9 minutes to 22 Eonju-ro 168-gil. But, just after that, Arthur told me, “No, I think it’s actually Mandujip (만두집),” a different restaurant entirely. So I looked that up too. All good, mistake caught, or so I thought.

Fast forward to that evening: we’re getting ready, a bit tired from the museum, and I open Naver Map again… only I accidentally pulled up the first route. So, off we went; confident and clueless.

We arrived at Mukjeon, which looked lovely and upscale. Nothing about it struck us as wrong. The menu wasn’t exactly what you’d expect from a dumpling place, but we asked the waiter for recommendations, and ended up having a wonderful meal. Elegant dishes, good service, relaxed atmosphere. There was even a separate pub entrance that gave the place a trendy edge.

 

After dinner, we strolled through the peaceful streets of Sinsa-dong, enjoying the mild spring air and the calm buzz of Gangnam at night. It was the kind of evening that feels like a perfect wrap to a special day.

It wasn’t until the next day that the penny dropped. I was scrolling through something when I came across the real Mandujip, and I burst out laughing. That was the restaurant Arthur had meant. The names both started with an “M”, and with everything in Hangeul, it was an easy mix-up. Somehow, I had taken us to the wrong place after all.

(For the record: Mandujip is near Exit 6 of Apgujeongrodeo Station, just a 3-minute walk away at 661-1 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam. Next time!)

But here’s the thing: neither of us minded. The food was great, the atmosphere lovely, and there was even an unexpected laugh after the meal. Arthur came back from the restroom grinning, showed me a photo, and said: “There were ice cubes in the urinal.” Of course, I didn’t see it myself, but I couldn’t stop laughing. A quirky little detail from a quirky little evening.

And so, Arthur’s birthday turned out to be a day of rain, relics, cake, and an accidental dinner, made complete with a surprise in the restroom. The kind of day you’ll definitely never forget.